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| 鞋的靈魂--鞋楦 The soul of the shoe- The last |
鞋楦 = 製作鞋子的模型。類似腳的形狀，無論在設計師前段設計鞋款、師傅後段成型製作以及底廠製作大底模型，楦頭都扮演著中心人物的角色。所以只要是身為鞋子製造者的任何一個環節的人員，都必須對楦頭有基礎的認識，尤其是設計人員！一個好的鞋款設計師對於楦頭更是需要有相當程度的了解，很多人都誤會楦頭全是技術師傅的責任，但是真正一開始決策楦頭線條形狀的卻是鞋款設計師。
The last is an abstract form in the close shape of the human foot. It plays significance role for designers or manufactures, no matter in design stage, lasting or bottom molding. Anyone who is working in any part of shoe manufacturing process should have basic knowledge of shoe last, especially footwear designer. In fact, a good footwear designer must have well knowledge of the last. Many people consider technicians should take fully responsibility for the last, but designers are responsible for it as well due to they are the one who make the decision of the shape of last.
一樣的楦頭甚至是一樣的鞋款設計圖...有技術經驗的設計師跟一般只是平面畫圖的設計師做出來的實際成品就可以看出差別，實際穿著上更會有明顯的感受。這也是好的設計師價值所在。
There’s difference between experienced footwear designers and regular graphic designers by the appearance of finished shoe, even use same last with the same upper design. Further, compare with fitting comfort, and you can see the value of good footwear designers.
鞋楦的材質由最早的木頭材質開始，慢慢因為製作方式以及機具的不同進而演變改用塑膠或是鋁質，但木頭楦仍是手工製鞋者的最愛並沒有被淘汰，不同材質皆有它運用於不同製作過程的優缺點。大部分工廠量產時使用的楦頭是根據設計開發的母楦(註一)在依照訂單所需尺寸進而級放而成，每個號碼的量產鞋子理當都有一雙屬於相同尺寸對照的楦頭，但假半碼除外(註二)。另外一些高檔品牌或是特殊腳型的人都會提供或是接觸到〝量身訂做〞的楦頭。
In early days, the last is made from wood, and throughout the history have been made from other materials like high density plastic or cast iron, and different materials have their own advantages and disadvantages. However, wooden lasts are the shoemaker’s favorite. Most of manufacturers are based on original last (footnote 1) to do last grading for production, per size corresponds with its own last except improper half size. (footnote 2).
個人鞋楦製作流程：(好險當年的教科書沒丟，不然這些早期的研究圖片部知道該去哪裡找了)
Shoe last making process:
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(A) The first step of last making is making sure of the shape and heel height, because the shape of the feet alters by different heel height. You should stand in relax position and open your legs shoulder-wide and equalize the weight on both feet.
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(B)製作腳模第一步使用的原料通常是藻膠粉+冷水，通常水溫會控制在18度C以下，因為藻膠粉在低溫狀態下可延長凝固時間。但溫度也不能過低，因為在過低的溫度下人的腳會自然收縮的現象進而影響到腳模正確性。將先前測量好的高度三角墊放進去腳模容器內，雙腳與肩同寬體重均勻分布在雙腳上後準備注入藻膠粉。
(B) The first step of foot model making is mixing alginate with cool water and controlling the temperature under 18 degree celsius, because colder water will slow the setting process extends working time. However, the temperature can’t be too cold or the feet shrink and it’s the factor affect the accuracy of foot mold. Then put the triangle pad into mold box, then stand in relax position and open your legs shoulder-wide and equalize the weight on both feet, then pour the ingredients into the box.
(B) The first step of foot model making is mixing alginate with cool water and controlling the temperature under 18 degree celsius, because colder water will slow the setting process extends working time. However, the temperature can’t be too cold or the feet shrink and it’s the factor affect the accuracy of foot mold. Then put the triangle pad into mold box, then stand in relax position and open your legs shoulder-wide and equalize the weight on both feet, then pour the ingredients into the box.
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(C) 通常會在前掌上方放置一個斜板木塊，用來節省藻膠粉的用量，藻膠粉凝固時間大約是在20分鐘。(所以想要幫自己訂做屬於自己的腳楦，嘿嘿嘿...可要先健身運動練練腿力才可以....，不然很容易前功盡棄滴~~~)
(C) Normally, there will be a wood slant board above the fore foot for saving the amount of the ingredients. Further, it takes around 20 minutes to completely solidify.
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(D) 20分鐘後....恭喜你解脫啦!!(快去旁邊坐做伸展操或是趕快躺平休息吧)哈哈哈.....雙腳在拔模的時候需要注意拔模前(已經確定藻膠體已經完全硬化的情況下)，雙腳先輕微攪動腳趾，感覺鬆開後再稍微用力往下壓 (別用太多吃奶力阿~~稍微就好~~不然你又要再多站20分鐘 and 多花幾張小朋友了) ，稍微用力是為了爭取一些小空間方便雙腳拔出，雙腳緩慢從模具裡移出(如果太過心急速度太快導致藻膠體被破壞....一樣恭喜你，重新再來20分鐘 and多 花點小朋友)
(D) Making sure of the ingredients has completely solidified before you pull out your feet. At first moving your toes slightly then push just a little bit harder after feeling loose, and it is for getting more space to pull out the foot easier. It is very important that you need to pull out your feet slowly, otherwise the mold might be broken then you need to go through all the process all over again.
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(E)接下來的步驟就是製楦師傅個人表演了，客人這時候就可以到旁邊喝茶聊天and休息了。先前做好的藻膠模只是腳外觀的模型，接下來需要製作成實心的腳楦模了，這時材料由第一階段的藻膠粉改為第二階段的紅石粉，把紅石粉液化後倒入藻膠體，就像一般模型注模一樣需要左敲敲右打打，使裡面的空氣能盡量排空，後續擱置約2小時紅石粉液大概就會完全乾燥了。
(E) The next thing is casting a solid mold. To liquefy redstone powder, and pour it into the hollow mold, then hammer at the mold to squeeze out the air. Then wait for 2 hours to let the liquid entirely dry.
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(F)取出腳模後將上面的藻膠粉輕輕刮除，在進行修補小孔洞(藻膠粉顆粒不均勻或是空氣未完全排出都是造成孔洞的原因)，腳模製作在這裡算是告一段落了。
(F) When the foot mold has been taken out, then scrape the powder off slightly, and revamp small holes of the surface, and the mold is finished.
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| G-鋁質楦頭 Aluminum last |
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| G-塑膠楦頭 Plastic last |
(G) The mold is not ready for sampling or production. It needs to be adjusted via statics and reshaped.
(註一)：根據新鞋款或新大底開發出來的第一只楦頭，無論外型、尺寸設定、各技術點的數據經過設計師以及相關技術師傅多次修改試穿並且確認完成，稱之為母楦，母楦一但經過確認後除非特殊原因否則不容修改。它是相關鞋款或大底生產的時的原始根據，該鞋款量產級放的數據也是由母楦發展出來。
[1] The first last is developed by brand new shoe styles or bottoms, then modified and confirmed by designers and technicians via profile, technical setup, fitting trial or size setting and we call it prototype last.
(註二)：鞋款製作流程中，楦頭的成本並不容忽視，許多廠商在成本壓力考量下每個尺寸的鞋子不一定都會生產(或購買)相對尺寸的楦頭，尤其是半碼的情況...。
例如：8 號與 8.5 號可能是同一只楦頭製作而成，但8.5 的鞋款鞋墊改用較薄的尺寸替代以增加鞋內空間，消費者穿著上會有8.5 號大一點的錯覺...，業界稱這種做法叫做假半碼。
[2] Considering the cost of whole size run lasts, some of manufactures don’t arrange the last for each size, half size especially. So the factory will use full size last to produce half-size shoe. For instance, use the last of size 8 and make the midsole thinner in order to make more space of the shoe. So when consumer wears the half-size shoe could feel it’s bigger than size 8.
