2011年8月14日 星期日

高跟鞋的發展 History of high heels

每個女孩總是夢想著有專屬自己的玻璃鞋
Every girl dreams of having a pair of her own glass heels


高跟鞋顧名思義就是鞋跟特別高的鞋子,會讓穿此鞋的人腳跟明顯比腳趾來的高,高跟鞋除增加高度外,因為高跟鞋的結構可以使女人的步幅減小也因為穿上後身體重心會往前移,腿部需要相應挺直並造成臀部收縮、胸部前挺...等,人類社會定義這姿態叫作婀娜多姿。

High heels is footwear that raises the heel od the wearer's foot apparently higher than the toes. High heels makes women instantly taller and walk in shorter steps, also that makes women bend their back, boost their breast, swiming their hips and strut, in other words: it helps to bring out attractive body posture.



但女性要讓自己婀娜多姿的代價卻不小,很多穿過高跟鞋的女性都可以理解穿著時腳部的不舒服感,但這些不舒服感都還算是小事,因為有越來越多的研究證明高跟鞋會讓女性的健康產生警訊。

Though women look pretty in heels, they have high price to pay. Many women know the discomfort of wearing high heels, but it's not the biggest concern. Many reserches indicate that high heels has bad effects on health.



高跟鞋的起源:
The Origin of high heels:


高跟鞋的前身起源可追溯至唐朝以前,詩人李白曾在他某篇文章中有提及:古人用來登山的履是一種類似高跟的底,可以讓人登上時可以更加輕鬆。

In ancient China Tang Dynasty, Li Po has mentioned about the ancients wear the shoe with heels for mountain climbing and it makes climbing easier.


而考古發現並有紀錄的高跟鞋是出現在中國明朝時期(大約是在14世紀),底後跟設計裝有4-5公分高的長圓底跟,而這也推翻大部分的人都認為高跟鞋源於西方的想法,因為根據考古數據以及歷史文件的記載,中國發明的高跟鞋比西方早了100年之久。

Archaeologists found evidence of 2 inches round heels in the Ming Dynasty (Around 14th Century) and it overthrew the saying of high heels is invented from Western. According to the data and historical papers, China has invented the heels a century earlier than Western.

 

這雙明朝發明的高跟鞋子比西方足足早了100年
This heels of Ming Dynasty was invented a century earlier than Western.


15世紀法國的宮廷服裝設計師發明了接近現在高跟鞋結構,這時候的高跟鞋子並不是專屬女孩子穿著,據說身材矮小的路易十四為了讓自己看起來更高大威武、自信並具權威,於是命令鞋匠在他的鞋底裝上4吋高的鞋跟,並把跟部漆成紅色以示身分尊貴。

In 15th century, French court costume created platform shoes and they are not just for women. Allegedly Louis XIV wanted to make himself look taller, more confidence and powerful, he asked his shoemaker to fit a 4 inches heel on his shoes, and the heels were painted with red to show his honourable status.


身材矮小的路易十四
King Louis XIV of France with the heels.
到了16世紀高跟鞋成為了貴族的時尚裝扮重要配件之一。法國路易15世就是個愛穿高跟鞋的國王,原因是因為他非常喜愛跳舞,所以常穿著高跟舞鞋,可惜後來因為他發福太多身材走樣,雙腳無法承受激烈運動而只好停止他喜愛的跳舞活動。

In 16th century, high heels is a significant accessory of nobles. King Louis XV loves wearing high heels to dance until he got too fat to dance that his feet couldn't bear heavy activities.


愛跳舞的路易十五
Louis XV is a dance lover.
而16世紀威尼斯地區仕女常穿著一種叫作「chopine」的高底鞋,這與當時回教世界女性腳底踩的高蹺有異曲同工之妙,也顯示出當時威尼斯與東方貿易關係的密切。許多婦女希望能夠增加身高,都會請工匠直接在鞋底部整個加高,而非像現在的高跟鞋只是在後跟處加高。(同時期的法國跟義大利,如果新娘穿著這類高跟鞋謊報身高被發現,則婚姻失效。)

Women regularly wears chopin shoes (a columnar shape that "rises the wearer up as a single unit") in Venice during the 16th. They request shoemakers elevate soles to raise their height not just increase the height to back of the heel like nowadays.

 

類似高蹺的高跟鞋
Stilt-like heels

17世紀開始高跟鞋開始普及,高跟拖鞋也在這時候誕生,鞋尖造型平直也無左右腳之分,紅色皮革鞋跟為貴族專利,所以平民不得使用。貴族的鞋面常使用緞帶、蕾絲花邊作造型以搭配室內布置作造型,風格相當華美。法國財政部長高爾貝為了整頓國內經濟、開發財源,所以號召絲織品公會每年例行性舉辦二季展覽會,用最新的流行樣式刺激貴族消費。
(現今歐美每年二季的服裝流行展就是沿用當年的制度)

In the 17th century, high heels become more common. Consequently, high-heeled slippers appear in this period, the feature is straight pointed toe that people couldn't figure the left and right foot. Nobles usually use similar gorgeous materials(fine silk or velvet and silver lace) that match their interior decoration to embellish the slippers. Finance minister Jean Baptiste Colbert's dirigist policy of fair trade for reorganizing the nation's economy has established France as the leading manufacturer of silk and other luxury items.




高跟拖鞋
high-heeled slipper
 18世紀開始高跟鞋就開始挑戰細跟以及造型鞋跟,鞋面的造型大都以搭配穿著服裝布料為主,也開始嘗試用蝴蝶結、珠寶、高級金屬、各式鞋釦甚至是鑽石裝飾鞋面,極為奢華。現在我們穿著的高跟鞋部分風格也是沿用18世紀的這股奢華的宮廷風。

In the 18th Century, High heels reflect the elaborate patterns of their dresses and have similar embroidery and trimming.The heels are getting thinner with different moulds, the uppers are adding some luxurious ornaments like bows, jewels, quality metals, buckles and diamonds. People continue using some of elements from it.



細鞋跟的出現
Thin high heels appear during the18th.


出現鑽石鞋釦配件
Heels with Diamonds and buckles.
 
精緻的鞋跟弧度設計,凸顯當時高水準的製鞋技術
This fine curve of the heel reveals high standard of shoemaking tech at the time.

只有貴族才用得起的鑽石鞋釦
Only Nobles afford diamond buckles.
 

到了18-19世紀貴族的活動不再侷限在宮廷內,購物、逛街、舞會甚至是打獵以及旅行等戶外活動開始頻繁,所以鞋款面料的設計開始增加了皮革用料,也開始出現大量靴款設計。

During the 18th -19th, activities of the noble is not just in the royal court anymore. The change of shoe material from fabric to leather, also the boot is in large demand due to frequent ourdoor activities such as shopping, party, hunting and travel...etc.






除了鞋款設計,法國知名的品牌 LV 也搭配這風潮推出了旅行鞋箱,最多可容納30雙鞋以及6雙靴子,旅行鞋箱材料設計為:羊毛、皮革、帆布、金屬。

In the meantime, the famous Louis Vuitton luxury brand created the trunk to hold 36 pairs of shoes. It is made of wool, leather, canvas and metal.



適合長途旅行的鞋箱
The shoe trunk for long journey.
19世紀另一股個人主義興起,除了流行風格外,個人穿著的舒適度以及強調獨立精神的設計開始大量產生。這時候的女鞋也開始注意如何展現女性腳部線條以及腳踝魅力。









20世紀開始也出現了不同品牌以及不同設計風格,也由於製鞋技術的改革與進步創造出極尖的鞋頭外加極尖的鞋跟,加上廣告影響不少女性為之瘋狂。這時許多鞋商也開始搭配好萊塢風潮,請明星代言。


鞋子廣告開始出現


貝塔鞋子博物館所收藏

鞋類相關傳說:

15世紀一為威尼斯商人娶了一個相當美麗的女子為妻,但是商人常需要出門做生意又擔心妻子會紅杏出牆常常為此煩惱不已。在一個下雨天他走在街上發現自己的鞋跟沾了許多泥巴因而困難行走,商人靈機一動立刻請人製作了一雙後跟很高的鞋子給妻子穿。因為威尼斯是座水城,船是主要的交通工具,商人認為高跟鞋會讓妻子無法在船板上行走進而可以把她困在家裡。沒想到妻子對於高跟鞋感到興趣就請傭人陪伴上船下船到處遊玩。而穿著高跟鞋的妻子行動起來更加婀娜多姿反而增加了更多愛慕者。許多女性為了吸引男性注意也爭相仿效。


參考資料:鞋之歷史進化論、貝塔鞋子博物館
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