 |
| 專注的製鞋師傅為每雙鞋子注入新的靈魂 Shoemakers pour soul into every pair of shoes they make. |
好鞋真的難做....有沒想過我們每天花多少時間穿著鞋子？有沒有想過每天被我們踏在腳底下陪我們翻山越嶺、出生入死的鞋子是被多少人力製造出來的？
Make a good shoe is difficult. Have you ever thought, how long we wear our shoes on in a day everyday? Have you ever thought of how shoes to be made by how many labors under what kind of conditions?
說鞋子陪我們出生入死還真的不誇張，從出生開始雖然雙腳還無法踏在地板上，但父母卻已經為了我們準備好了一雙雙可愛的保暖鞋，大一點學會走路穿在腳上的就變成了學步鞋，接下來在成長的不同階段中出現了各式各樣的鞋款，不同功能的運動鞋、休閒鞋、皮鞋、高跟鞋、雨鞋、工作鞋...等，甚至是特殊情況需要的矯正鞋以及壽終時穿的鞋。鞋子跟衣服一樣真的是〝從頭到尾〞陪著我們。
We come through a lot of things with shoes. Since we born, our feet couldn’t walk on the floor, but our parents have already prepared some cute newborn shoes. Then when we’re toddlers, they bought us toddle shoes. Continuously, at different growth stages of life or occasions, we wear various types of shoes, such as sporty shoes, casuals, leather shoes, high heels, rain boots or working shoes… etc. Just like clothes, we can’t leave with our shoes in our whole life.
鞋子製作過程所耗費的人工是很驚人的，雖然有機器的出現但是機器可以取代的部分畢竟有限，雖然機械化確實提升了不少工廠效能與生產速度、更縮減了製造端到消費端的距離，但是個人認為...太多機器環節做出來的東西失去了彈性、線條甚至是情感溫度。(再次強調：純屬個人立場)。畢竟鞋子製作過程不像電子產品一樣所有配件環節都是可以經過精密計算，配件材料一經製造本身穩定性高；而鞋子所使用的材料，尤其是皮料部分都是具有彈性以及相關物性，一雙鞋子上更是會出現2-3種材料(甚至更多)的組合搭配，每個材料因為製作過程中溫度與不同組合隨時隨地都還會繼續產生新變化，所以過程中很多時候都是需要靠師傅的經驗隨時作調整。
The production of shoe making is taking tremendous manpower, even some procedures are replacing by machines. Therefore, efficacy rate and production speed have improved by mechanization process, even shorten the distance between manufacturers and consumers. However, we personally think too many mechanization processes make the product falls out of flexibility, humanness and lines…… and it’s just our point of view. Due to the production process is not like electronic products; every assembly and material in every step has been calculated precisely. Nevertheless, the materials that used for shoes are relevant elasticity. Further, a pair of shoe may have more than 2 or 3 combinations, and each material varies by the process of temperature changing, so the shoemakers need to do adjustments by their experience during the process.
今天想跟大家分享一下手工鞋的製作流程。以手工皮底鞋為例：(影片以成型製底為主)
Here we would like to introduce how handmade shoes are made shortly. Those videos are an example of leather sole handmade shoe.
每一雙純手工的鞋子都至少需要經過50道甚至是100多道的程序才能完成，從設計圖繪製(含配色配料)→皮料處理挑選→楦頭製作→面版製作→底部製作→成型→後段包裝處理，每個環節又有許多不同的工序。影片(一)是直接從中底皮製作切入，老師傅熟練的切邊、削邊、打粗並精準的做出縫線孔。
Every handmade shoe takes over 50 ~ 100 steps to be finished. From design drawing (including fix color and material combinations), material selection, last making, pattern making, bottom making, lasting then packing; and every step links many processes. In Part I video, the shoemaker is starting from insole making, you can see him maters cutting, trimming, roughening and accurate perforating for seam.
第二段影片說的是攀鞋 (把製作好的鞋面固定到楦頭上的過程)，這段影片裡面會有貼前後襯的動作(影片38秒到1分15秒)，機器化操作下這個部分在某些鞋款的製作會被更改的，正常來說師傅需要調整好前後襯的位置(不同鞋款前後襯大小跟位置都會不同)，等到乾燥程度ok才會進行攀鞋動作，很多工廠為了講求效率會直接在鞋面針車的時候將前後襯直接車在鞋面上，這樣很容易造成鞋頭型狀不一的問題。因為工廠大量製作的工序針車手並不是一雙雙針車鞋子的分片，而是拆解成一個個獨立的步驟，所以製作人員很難有太多人工比對時間，每個環節大部分只靠鞋面上的記號點或是記號線去執行製作。
Lasting is a complicated operation to give the stitched upper a rounded form like the shape of the last. Before lasting, the shoemaker cuts the counter and tapers away gradually from the edge of the sole upward, and it is fitted between the upper and the lining so that its top edge comes to the top of the upper. Then he fits the insole to the sole area of the last, and he pulls the upper forward with the grooved pliers, beginning with the area around toe and heel, then the ball of the foot on the both inside and outside. As it’s pulled forward the shoe begins to take shape. After using his pliers the shoemaker carefully hammers the leather of the upper to fit the 3D shape of the last.
第三段影片開始進行第一階段沿條與鞋面的結合，每一針師傅都必須用力拉緊，可想而知一雙鞋子縫過一遍那是需要花多少時間多少力氣阿！楦頭雙邊平緩弧度與前鞋頭後踵的弧度所需要的拉力也不同，這階段的最後需要用皮刀將沿條外的的底部皮料削除，這樣方便下一階段填心(皮料邊緣厚度與楦底的高度落差需要用彈性材料補平)的步驟。
The shoemaker begins stitching the welt at the heel. After every stitch he pulls the threads tight so that the stitches will be taut and embed themselves in the leather. When the stitching is finished the shoemaker trims the extra leather away and continues to fill up the space between the soles.
鐵心通常使用在皮鞋、高跟鞋甚至是某些運動式高底台或是戶外登山鞋款，鐵心通常為鋼料其作用在於支撐分擔身體帶給鞋子重量，放置位置在鞋後跟到鞋弓處不等，定型鐵心的長短及硬度必須視鞋子的用途而定，放置鐵心前師傅也會依照放置位置的不同適度修改鐵心弧度。(16秒-1分20秒處)是填心動作，填心材料可以幫助穿著的舒適度也可以減少材料落差幫助底部貼合。這段影片說明皮底製作的繁瑣，需要經過一層層貼合，一次次打粗，一遍又一遍的刷膠，導角、修皮邊、第二次縫線每個步驟都需要極度耐性與細心。
Usually shank spring is for leather shoes, high heels, sporty platforms or climbing shoes. It is a flat piece of material that can be made from steel. The shank is located above the outer sole at the waist (the narrow part of the shoe, located between the heel and toe and just underneath the arch) of the shoe to add support to the arch and help give a shoe its structure. Then the cover of the shank spring and the cork lining fill up the space between the soles that gives shoe with stability and comfort. The shoemaker roughens the surface to be stuck together with a file to make it more adhesive again and again.
