好鞋難做(二) Make a good shoe is difficult (Part II)

影片(五) 是貼後跟的動作，鞋跟設定高度越高重複次數就會越多。也因為是皮底富有材料彈性，所以過程中需要不斷的修整、固定。上色前需要對皮底作最後也最仔細的修整及表面處理，接下來根據設計師配色要求進行上色，油墨經過皮纖維自然吸收會出現天然的紋路，這也是手工皮鞋迷人處之一。


This video of constructing the heel and the front of the heel is first marked on the shoe in pencil. The heel lifts cut out to make the heel are hammered, to compress the fibers and make the material as firm as possible. Further shoemaker begins dyeing the edge of the sole and the outside of the heel in black, and leather fiber appears natural grains via absorbing the ink, then that is one of reasons why handmade shoes are attractive to customers.

影片(六)底部製作完成後敲打出尺寸以及拔楦，就可以製作鞋墊部分。放置鞋墊前還需要上釘增加鞋跟與鞋底的強度。貼鞋墊--材料通常由後跟對齊固定後往前順貼。一雙手工鞋的底部動作算是完成了....。

Finishing the outsole, the shoemaker pulls the last carefully out of the shoe, then finishing the inside of the shoe. Smoothing over the entire inside surface again and providing the whole of the insole with a cover. Further, the insole cover must be carefully glued in place, or it will work loose while the wearer walks, forming wrinkles which would cause the foot discomfort. Then she shoe is finished.


但是除了鞋工廠製作的程序，鞋材被製作完成送進工廠前，也值得被探討，既然介紹了皮底製作，那就約略介紹一下皮料的製作過程：

Leather has an important position of shoe, so we would like introduce how the leather is made brief:

以牛皮為例，最多被使用的主要有黃牛皮以及水牛皮，同一張完整動物皮料可依據本身厚度不同以及皮性好壞作成不同效果的皮料，例如表面可作成牛面皮，第二層皮裡可作成反毛皮以此類推...。

According to cowhide, the most commonly used are Cow Leather and Buffalo Leather. A whole hide will be made in different purposes by the thickness and quality.


皮料的製作過程相當複雜，一張皮從動物身上取下後需要經過  鹽濕皮→水洗→浸水→脫毛→浸灰→去肉→片皮→稱重→復灰→頂脫灰→脫灰→浸酸揉製→出鼓→放置→復鞣→染色→出鼓→伸展→濕棚板→回潮→摔軟→棚板→磨革→補傷→噴底層→噴中層→噴頂層→輕棚板→保護漆.....(以上過程只是略說)，實際面來說雖然皮料作成皮件或是其他商品有許多迷人之處是人工皮料無法比擬的，但是製作一張皮料所消耗的動物生命，包括畜養動物過程中所消耗的環境成本、製作皮料時所製造的汙染以及後續人工成本是非常的驚人的，站在愛護地球的角度上來說這也是需要我們好好去審思的地方。

Leather production process is complicated, the preparatory stages are when the hide/skin is prepared for tanning. Preparatory stages may include: wet salting, water washing, soaking, unhairing, liming, fleshing, splitting, weighing, reliming, deliming, bating, degreasing, frizzing, bleaching, pickling, depickling. oiling, brushing, padding, impregnation, buffing, spraying, roller coating, curtain coating, polishing, plating, embossing, ironing, ironing/combing (for hair-on), glazing, and tumbling… etc. Actually, leatherette or other materials of products are incomparable with fascinating features of leather goods. However, what we need to consider is leather production process causes water pollution and animal killing. In a perspective of caring for the Earth, we need to rethink of it.