鞋的靈魂--鞋楦 The soul of the shoe- The last |
鞋楦 = 製作鞋子的模型。類似腳的形狀,無論在設計師前段設計鞋款、師傅後段成型製作以及底廠製作大底模型,楦頭都扮演著中心人物的角色。所以只要是身為鞋子製造者的任何一個環節的人員,都必須對楦頭有基礎的認識,尤其是設計人員!一個好的鞋款設計師對於楦頭更是需要有相當程度的了解,很多人都誤會楦頭全是技術師傅的責任,但是真正一開始決策楦頭線條形狀的卻是鞋款設計師。
The last is an abstract form in the close shape of the human foot. It plays significance role for designers or manufactures, no matter in design stage, lasting or bottom molding. Anyone who is working in any part of shoe manufacturing process should have basic knowledge of shoe last, especially footwear designer. In fact, a good footwear designer must have well knowledge of the last. Many people consider technicians should take fully responsibility for the last, but designers are responsible for it as well due to they are the one who make the decision of the shape of last.